Is Aberystwyth Really 'Grim and Grey'? A Local's Response to Bill Bryson.

View North towards Constitution Hill

In The Road to Little Dribbling, Bill Bryson describes Aberystwyth as "squatting, grim and grey......and was never going to be anything but miserable." I was horrified at his description, as I love Aberystwyth and can happily amuse myself there for several hours. Especially with a pork and stuffing batch, or sausage bap from Morgan’s the Butchers, or a bag of pick and mix from Mollie’s. You have to admit any town on a wet day is dismal, and there are no huge malls like we have in Canada so you have to face the outside elements.

The Heart of the Town: The Prom and Constitution Hill

Aberystwyth is most famous for its huge 1.5-mile long Victorian promenade. This was originally built as a sea defense. The bandstand is still a feature, as are the beautiful Victorian properties on the opposite side of the road. I love visiting on a stormy day and seeing the waves lashing up the wall, and at times right across the road.

“Once you get to the end of the prom, don’t forget to kick the bar.” Well, now you are going to have to walk it, aren’t you? So you know what I am talking about.

The Aberystwyth Cliff Funicular railway is situated at the North end of the promenade and leads up to Constitution Hill. The railway has been in operation since 1896; it is well worth a trip either up in it or down. A gentle path also meanders up to the top where you can enjoy the wonderful views along the Welsh coast and, on a clear day, admire the Snowdonia mountain range. There is a cafe/restaurant — Y Consti — located at the top.

Don’t ignore the South end of the promenade, otherwise you will miss the War Memorial and the ruins of Aberystwyth Castle.

Regardless of the weather or time of year, you are bound to spot a few swimmers braving the waves. Again, like Aberaeron, there are no sandy beaches, and please be attentive to the flag flying to indicate whether it is safe to swim.

Aberystwyth Cliff Railway

View from the top of Constitution Hill

From "Hinterland" to Coastal Runs

If you are a Hinterland fan, you will know that the police headquarters in the show was located in Aberystwyth where DCI Mathias and DI Mared Rhys were stationed. Many of the areas surrounding Aberystwyth were used in filming the various episodes. DCI Mathias‘s caravan was just along the coast between the town and Llanrhystud.

I have run past it many times. I often run here from my place in Llanrhystud along the Ceredigion Coast Path. If I am by myself, I might catch the bus back or, on one occasion, I turned around after a bacon bap and ran back!

At certain times of the year, the starlings gather in huge flocks and perform their mesmerizing murmurations. I have yet to witness this amazing dance which takes place near the famous pier. If the weather is wet, the slot machines and arcades can keep the kids busy here.

View of the South beach from the top of the Coast Path

The Ceredigion Coast Path is well signposted

Nostalgic Rails and School House Eats

One place I love to eat is the Athro Lounge near the main railway station. There is a Wetherspoons next door, but Athro has some unique meals and it is located in an old school house, so I just feel right at home.

As well as the funicular railway, Aberystwyth also has the Vale of Rheidol Railway. A steam train that takes you on a nostalgic journey through the Rheidol Valley to Devil’s Bridge (featured in another post). It is pricey, but worth it to travel through this beautiful landscape away from the modern-day era.

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The Insider's Shopping Guide

Key stops for me in "Aber" (as it is fondly known):

• Tesco or Morrisons: Obviously to get groceries.

• Marks and Spencer: Don’t ask what I get there!

• Charlies: To get stuff I really don’t need, but who can resist? (I will add B&M here too as they are very close).

• Polly’s: Great funky clothes that a woman of my age should probably not wear, but I do!

• Mountain Warehouse: Because you can never have enough outdoor gear.

• Summit Cycles: A good shop for mountain, gravel, or road bikes. They also sell clothing and fuel, though they do not rent bikes.

Parking and Transport Secrets

For parking, here are my go-to spots:

• Matalan: You have 3 hours. Located in the Ystwyth Retail Park on Park Ave.

• Tesco: Also 3 hours. Also on Park Avenue.

• Mountain Warehouse: 90 minutes in the Rheidol Retail Park.

• The Prom: If you can find a spot, it’s great, but I believe they have now installed parking meters here.

The bus service is also great and serves the whole Ceredigion area. The main bus stops are on Alexandra Road right by the main train station. Like Aberaeron, Aberystwyth also hosts a regular Parkrun.

View of part of the Castle. Built around 1280 by King Edward 1.

Aberystwyth War Memorial to honour those who died in the First and Second World Wars. The figure at the top represents Victory, bringing news of peace and victory. The woman at the bottom symbolises Humanity rising from the chaos of the war.