Hike: Running, Shuffling, and Soaking It In: The Rugged Beauty of Nant‑y‑Moch.

Nant-y-Moch dam and reservoir

This challenging 22 km (13.67 miles) hike begins at the car park (no charge) tucked beside the beautiful Nant‑y‑Moch dam. I’m not going to tell you how to get there — that’s your Sat‑Nav’s job — but I will give you a word of warning. Once you turn off the main A44, the road becomes single track and wonderfully twisty‑turny… but then again, what Welsh road isn’t?

Drive with care. The surface is good and there are plenty of passing places. One day I’d love to explore the area on my bike; I’d probably park at the petrol station just before the Nant‑y‑Moch turn, or along the road shortly after it. That adventure will be a future post.

Also worth noting, there are no facilities here. No toilets, no shops, cafes or ice cream truck !

(Bring a picnic and a blanket.)

Nant‑y‑Moch sits in the Cambrian Mountains. The valley was flooded in 1964, and the reservoir now forms part of the Cwm Rheidol hydroelectric power scheme.

Here’s an interesting (and slightly eerie) fact: the graveyard that once lay in the valley had to be relocated to a nearby church in Ponterwyd before the flooding. Surely there must be a few ghost stories hiding in that history.

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There is a walking route around the reservoir — roughly 7 km (4.2 miles) — but I chose a longer trail using the AllTrails app. that takes in Llyn Craig-y-Pistyll

I used to visit Craig‑y‑Pistyll as a child. My grandad would terrify us by driving those narrow, unpaved roads with blind hills and flooded sections. We’d scream in mock terror while my gran clutched the seat and shouted, “Slow down, Walter!” Sadly, those roads don’t seem drivable anymore, so the only way to reach this particular Llyn is on foot or with an off‑road vehicle.

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Back to the Route (and My Mild Navigation Crisis)

I’m not going to direct you road by road or track by track — that’s exactly what the AllTrails app is for. It even pings you when you wander off route… which may have happened once or twice. I have to say, I’m impressed with it. There are so many paths laced through this landscape that it would be very easy to get lost.

That said, I’d still recommend carrying an OS map and a compass. I had a slightly nerve‑wracking end to my day when my phone battery started to die, and I realised just how much I was relying on it. A good reminder: don’t depend solely on your phone. Make sure you have another way to navigate — and know how to use a compass before you set out.

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Lakes You’ll Pass Along the Way

One of the joys of this hike is how often the landscape opens up to reveal another llyn. Each one feels slightly different — some long and still, others tucked into folds of moorland, and a few that appear suddenly after a bend in the trail. Many of these are often referred to as "Miners Lakes". The term describes the scattered small scale lakes that were built in the 18th and 19th centuries to support lead and metal mining prior to the flooding of the area in 1964.

• Llyn Nant-y-Moch — The reservoir itself, of course — vast, dramatic, and ever‑present. You’ll see it from different angles as the trail loops and climbs. Today it was very low - a result of the recent unusually hot weather and very little rain.

• Llyn Craig-y-Pistyll — Remote, tucked away, and only reachable on foot or by off‑road vehicle now. Look for the waterfall that cascades down the valley.

• Llyn Pendam — Stretched out like a silver ribbon beside the gravel tracks. Today it was calm and elegant.

• Llyn Blaenmelindwr — Smaller and more sheltered, beautifully quiet. It’s one of those spots where you instinctively slow down and take a breath.

• Llyn Syfydrin — A broad, open lake surrounded by moorland. A beautiful deep blue colour today.

These llynoedd break up the terrain beautifully, allowing moments of reflection between the forest trails, logging roads, and moorland stretches.

The Most Challenging Section: The Descent Beside Craig‑y‑Pistyll

One of the toughest parts of the hike comes at around the 10 km (6 mile) mark — the descent into the valley skirting Craig‑y‑Pistyll mountain. The trail here narrows significantly, and on this particular day it was bone‑dry, leaving only loose gravel between my feet and a steep, gorse‑covered drop to the river and rocks below. I’m reasonably fit and not afraid of heights, but I still found myself picking my way down with far more care than usual. At one point, I was so afraid of slipping I crouched down and went down almost on my bum ! I should point out I only had my Hoka Clifton 10 running shoes on. Something like my Hoka Mafate 5 would have been much better, with the vibram soles to grip the surface.

This section is not suitable for young children, anyone unsteady on their feet, or anyone who dislikes heights. Walking poles would have been incredibly useful, but I hadn’t brought any — I’d originally set out intending to run the route, and poles would have been more of a nuisance than a help.

Once you finally reach the bottom, you thread your way through bracken that has completely overgrown the path. Then comes the reward: a beautiful stream with a pool deep enough to wade in. After the nerve‑jangling descent, dipping my feet into that cold water was bliss. Take a moment here — the views are stunning, and the quiet of the valley feels like a little pocket of calm after the adrenaline of the climb down.

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The Final Stretch: Lost Paths, Hidden Cottages, and a Very Tired Shuffle

The next kilometre didn’t get any easier. Once you’re at the bottom of the valley, the path becomes surprisingly hard to find. It winds past a small cottage with a caravan and a car parked outside — yet there’s no discernible road leading to it. It feels almost secret, tucked away from the world, and I had to rely heavily on the app to reassure myself I was still on the correct route.

Eventually, the trail leads you into a forest, climbing steadily until it spits you out onto a gravel road — a welcome sight after the bracken, the scrambling, and the guessing. From here, the terrain settles into a mix of gravel and paved road. It is still around 6-8km to go however before you catch your first glimpse of Nant‑y‑Moch across the moorland. It was a welcome moment seeing the reservoir you left hours earlier, knowing you’re finally looping back, and your phone is about to die.

My run — even on the flatter (ish) road — had by this point deteriorated into a shuffle. I was absolutely done. Not enough fuel, not enough snacks, and definitely not enough energy left in the tank. But despite the fatigue, I was so glad I’d done it. The route was stunning, full of varied scenery, unexpected challenges, and little flashes of memories from years gone by.

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A Grateful Ending: Mountains, Solitude, and the Joy of a Passing “Hello”

As I made my way back toward Nant‑y‑Moch, shuffling more than running by this point, I felt that familiar mix of exhaustion and deep gratitude settling in. There’s something about these mountains — their ruggedness, their quiet serenity — that makes you feel small in the best possible way. The scenery is vast and unfiltered, raw Cambrian beauty stretching out in every direction.

For long stretches I didn’t see a soul, and I loved that solitude. The only company was the wind skimming across the moorland, the sudden burst of a skylark rising from the heather, and the occasional buzzard calling from somewhere impossibly high. There’s a peace here that sinks into you slowly, the kind you don’t realise you’ve been craving until you’re standing in the middle of it.

And then — just when you’ve settled fully into the quiet — you spot someone in the distance. A lone walker, a cyclist. That tiny flicker of excitement rises, because meeting someone out here feels almost celebratory. A shared smile, a quick “Alright?” or “Cracking day for it,” and then you both continue on your separate paths, connected for a moment by the same wild landscape.

By the time I reached the car park, I was tired, hungry, and absolutely content. This route had given me everything: challenge, beauty, memories, solitude. I was in awe of it all — the mountains, the birds, the silence, the sheer scale of the place.

Now.... where did I put that bag of crisps !

Stats - according to Strava:

Distance: 22.45km

Elevation: 465m of elevation. (AllTrails lists it as 665m).

Time taken: 3h 14 minutes.

Difficulty: Moderate, with some hard sections

(I haven't worked out how to link the Strava app to this - just follow me on Strava!)

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 Tips for This Hike — and Others in the Cambrian Mountains

Carry more food than you think you’ll need.   These long, mixed‑terrain routes take more out of you than expected. Even if you plan to run sections, pack proper fuel — not just a token snack.

Don’t rely solely on your phone.   Battery drain happens fast when you’re using GPS, taking photos, and checking the route. Bring an OS map and a compass, and make sure you actually know how to use them.

Walking poles are worth their weight in gold.   Especially for steep, loose descents like the one near Craig‑y‑Pistyll. Even if you don’t usually use them, they can make tricky sections far safer and more comfortable. They also take a lot of load of your knees.

Expect mixed terrain.   Paved road, gravel, forest trails, logging tracks, moorland — you’ll get a bit of everything. Good footwear is essential, and waterproof socks wouldn’t go amiss on wetter days. This route would get VERY muddy and boggy in wet weather.

Watch for overgrown sections.   Bracken can swallow the path entirely in summer. Trust your navigation, take your time, and don’t panic if the trail disappears for a moment.

Be prepared for solitude.   You may go long stretches without seeing anyone. It’s part of the magic — the peace, the birds, the wind — but make sure someone knows your route and expected return time.

Enjoy the human moments.   When you do meet someone out there, it feels special. A quick chat or a shared smile can lift your spirits more than you’d expect.

Take time at the lakes and streams.   These are natural rest points. Dip your feet, breathe, look around. The scenery is breathtaking, and these pauses become some of the best memories of the day. Note however, you are not allowed to swim in the lakes/ reservoirs.

Weather changes fast.   Even on a bright morning, the Cambrian Mountains can throw wind, mist, or rain at you without warning. Layers, waterproofs, and a hat are your friends.

Respect the remoteness.   This landscape is rugged, wild, and not always forgiving. That’s exactly why it’s beautiful — but it’s also why preparation matters.

Finally: LEAVE NO TRACE.

What are ewe you looking at?