Llwybr Arfordir Ceredigion Coast Path
- Mandy Long
- Jul 28
- 7 min read
Updated: Aug 30
As this goes right past my doorstep in Llanrhystud, and I have done most of the sections in isolation over the years it has always been a desire of mine to complete the whole trail in its entirety. After doing the stretch from New Quay to Llanrhystud the week before, I decided the time had come. It would be a great test of my abilities and equipment ready for my epic Coast to Coast the following week. An opportunity to iron out any niggles, or to totally rethink or back out of the entire venture... Never !
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Day 1: Aberteifi to Llangrannog.
Before you set off on the Ceredigion Coast Path, it’s worth sorting out your logistics. There are plenty of buses along the route — and a train if you need it — or, if you’re lucky, a good friend who’ll drop you off or rescue you at the other end.
I took the T5 into Aberteifi with Mini Me, my Deuter 45+10 rucksack, weighing in at around twenty‑odd pounds. The short walk to the bus stop had already revealed a few niggles. As Bruce Springsteen would say, “It’s gonna be a long walk home.”
The Coast Path was established in 2008. It seems they have made significant upgrades to it over the years. The signage is excellent, and I barely used any navigation aids. Walking south to north, the rule was simple: keep the sea on my left and follow the signs.
The official start is a bronze otter statue near the old bridge in Aberteifi. Don’t cross the bridge — instead head slightly uphill towards the town and pick up the waymarkers. The opening stretch isn’t glamorous. You pass the sewage works (a reminder that I should have gone for a pee), and then, counterintuitively, the path heads inland through farmers fields and along a paved road skirting the estuary. Eventually you start wondering where on earth it’s taking you — until a sign tucked into a hedgerow points you back toward the sea. At last: that first proper glimpse of the coast.
This section passes several beaches I used to visit as a kid. They were all busy in the sunshine, and I briefly imagined a dip in the sea… until I pictured the salt chafing and abandoned the idea. I’d only taken a couple of short breaks, so after about four hours I stopped in Aberporth for a bacon, brie and cranberry toastie that didn’t touch the sides, plus a chai latte. Bliss. Taking my shoes off was even better — though perhaps not for the other customers. Half an hour later, revived, I was back on the trail. (Mental note - revisit some of these glorious beaches and take the time to really enjoy them.) In order South to North: Mwnt, Aberporth, Tresaith, Penbryn and Llangrannog.
Mwnt: famous for its whitewashed medieval Holy Cross Church.
Aberporth: Has two sandy beaches, called Dolwen and Dyffryn either side of a rocky prominence.
Tresaith: famous for its waterfall that cascades on to the beach
Penbryn: Almost a mile of sandy beach here, reached via a woodland path
Llangrannog: Another beach which is actually two beaches. One - Cilborth - is only accessible at low tide, separated from Traeth Llangrannog by a Giant's tooth - the Carreg Bica.
(BTW - Traeth = beach in Welsh.)
I’d hoped to reach New Quay (especially because a friend insisted I wouldn’t manage it). She was absolutely right. By the time I reached Llangrannog I was hot, tired, and thoroughly fed up with Mini Me. Even a pick-me-up Coke and a hydration sachet kindly given to me at the greatly named 'The Plwmp Tart' couldn't rouse me to carry on. New Quay was another 15 km away. Google had told me 32 km for the day from Aberteifi to New Quay; it would have been closer to 45km. Don’t believe everything AI tells you.
The campsite — which I hadn’t booked — was a mile up the hill. A slow trudge later, I dropped Mini Me, pitched the tent, and enjoyed a glorious shower with unrestricted hot water. Feeling human again, I walked back down to the pub to recharge both myself and my electronics.
Strava recorded 32.17 km, 1178 m of elevation, completed in 7 hours 8 minutes.
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Day 2: Llangrannog to Llanrhystud.
I woke to sunlight after a fitful night, but not feeling half as bad as I’d imagined I would. Being 59 and sleeping in a tent, I’d expected to creak my way into the morning, but I was surprisingly functional. What I had forgotten was that special joy of putting on damp, sweaty gear from the day before. Not nice.
I had a long day ahead — probably the toughest section of the Ceredigion Coast Path in terms of elevation — so I was glad to get moving early. Nothing was open at that hour, but I’d planned ahead and had flapjack for breakfast. A solid choice, I thought.
The going was slow. The weight of Mini Me on the ascents left me short of breath and stopping often. I was grateful for my walking poles; they steadied me, gave me something to lean on, and reminded me that whoever said poles are “just for old ladies” has clearly never carried a 20‑lb pack up coastal cliffs at 59 years old.
I was getting frustrated with myself. Everything felt like it was taking too long, and I had to remind myself — again — to stop turning adventures into timed challenges. Too often I want to go as fast as possible and forget to savour what’s around me. The walk becomes an exercise in speed, and the joy gets lost somewhere behind the stopwatch.
Around 11 km in, I started feeling a sharp pain on the top of my foot. I loosened my laces. A few kilometres later, I loosened them again. By the time I reached New Quay, my shoe was practically slipping off, but at least the pressure had eased somewhat.
Breakfast in New Quay, four and a half hours after setting off, was very welcome— and once again the chance to remove shoes and socks was even better. I’d walked this section a week earlier, so I knew what was coming. There were still some climbs to tackle, but once I reached Aberaeron I knew the rest was flat.
A spattering of rain had me wrestling with my backpack cover and waterproof jacket. Naturally, the rain stopped the moment I finished faffing with my gear. Typical. I grabbed a milkshake in Aberaeron and headed for home.
Strava’s verdict: 40.87 km, 1260 m of elevation, completed in 9 hours 23 minutes.
My foot’s verdict: a swollen lump that Google diagnosed as some kind of overuse, repetitive‑strain, bursa‑something‑or‑other. It also told me not to continue tomorrow. Obviously I am going to ignore that.
Off for a bath.
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Day 3: Llanrhystud to Ynyslas.
I’d planned this final day around the luxury of ditching Mini Me and walking with a lighter pack. Staying in my own place meant I could start early, stick to the train and bus times to get me back, and carry only the essentials: egg sandwiches, a couple of sausages, and a selection of Mr Kipling goodies. At 6 a.m., I was out the door.
This stretch of coast is the most familiar to me. I’ve walked and ran it from Llanrhystud to Aberystwyth more times than I can count, and that familiarity — combined with the bliss of being considerably lighter — should have had me skipping along. But the 50 km/h winds had other ideas. They jostled me, tried to whip my poles out of my hands, and battered me every time I crested a cliff‑top ridge. I didn't let it beat me, I laughed in its face. The choughs and ravens laughed too, diving and whirling on the air currents like acrobats showing off.
I’d already had breakfast at home, but who doesn’t enjoy a second breakfast? At 10 a.m. I found myself debating whether a cream tea for one was an acceptable breakfast choice. I decided the calories — especially the clotted cream — were entirely justified. The bloke behind me decided a pint would be in order for his breakfast. Well, he was from Liverpool- (sorry if you’re a Scouser).
The path on this section is beautifully defined: twisting, turning, rising, falling, with wild sets of steps and deep descents, all liberally decorated with sheep poo.
My heart sank when I reached Borth and saw a sign that said Ynyslas 4½ miles that‑a‑way. Really? Google had confidently told me Ynyslas was one mile from Borth. At least it was flat, but it was a never‑ending 4½ miles until I finally reached the car park at Ynyslas.
Here’s where Google got it wrong again. It claimed the Ceredigion Coast Path finishes at the War Memorial in Ynyslas. In all my years of coming here, I’ve never seen a war memorial. Neither had the car park attendants or the people in the visitor centre. There isn’t one. And there were no crowds waiting to congratulate me — just a pesky herring gull trying to nick my crisps.
I sat for a while, congratulating myself and feeling genuinely proud of the accomplishment. Then reality struck: I had a train to catch, and Borth was… yes… 4½ miles that‑a‑way. I half‑jogged, half‑walked my way back, arriving at Borth station — featured in Hinterland, (as is Ynyslas and Mathias’s caravan right on the path) — with ten minutes to spare.
Final Strava stats: 37.6km of walking for today, elevation: 1358m and 7hours 43 mins - what a difference in not having a 20lb pack.
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Reflective Ramblings and Random Over-tired Thoughts:
-Don’t pass up a bench.
-Take off your shoes and socks whenever you stop. If possible, carry alternate footwear that frees the toes.
-Eat when you can — even if you don’t fancy anything.
-Don’t set yourself impossible timelines. Be present. Enjoy the moment. It will be gone far too quickly.
-3 days was a lot for this thru-hike. The total distance according to the pamphlet (not Google) is 61 miles/98km. A more realistic timeline might be 5-6 days to enjoy stopping at the towns enroute and lessening the mileage each day.
I would rank it as a moderate/hard walk.
What sections have you walked? Have you done the whole thing? What was your favourite part? Let me know in the comments.
Great report