Day 10: Between the Land and the Sky.
A day that started with chickens, moorland, questionable calorie choices, and the long shimmering line where the North Sea first hints at the end of the journey.
A bacon and egg sandwich for breakfast — with a chicken for company — and I was off for 33 km to Clay Bank Top and Beak Hills Farm. I said goodbye to Connor, Charlotte, Ethan, and Laura. She was staying behind at the campsite to wait for Margo, Reindert, and the Aussie lads, who would be arriving that evening.
I walked mainly on my own today. Someone once asked me, “What do you think about on the walk?” I’m not sure really — everything and nothing. Lots of songs, lots of questions, nothing too deep. This journey is about getting away from all that and feeling free, physically and emotionally.
I caught up with Connor and Charlotte at the A19 — the famous crossing with four lanes of traffic and an 8 km detour if you don’t fancy dodging traffic. I had a delicious milkshake at the services and felt full of energy and vigor. I was glad to have company to make the dash with. As I left behind the roaring road, I reflected on that fact that I should have bought more food, but nothing appealed. I love sandwiches, but there is a limit. You’d think I’d have learned my lesson by now.
I hiked through lovely woodland and back out onto the moors again. I bypassed Osmotherley and instead wove my way through heather and bilberry bushes which was hiding lots of red grouse. It was another 27‑degree day, but by evening you could feel the temperature dropping and the wind picking up.
Beak Hills Farm was 1 km off the C2C and only a fiver to camp. It had great views and, surprisingly, a stunning shower block. I’d stopped at Lordstones en route for a quick bite, and I’m glad I did — there was nowhere to get food again. Bad planning on my part. The fellow at Lordstones had given me a free meat pie. I’ll have that for breakfast.
Today was the first day I caught a glimpse of the North Sea. I think I did. I was thinking of John Cleese in Fawlty Towers: “It’s over there — between the land and the sky.”
And for the second time on this trip, I found out that for a tenner — you’ve guessed it — I could have had a massive Yorkshire breakfast. Bugger.
Strava says: Distance: 33.5 km (20.82 miles)
Elevation gain: 921 m (3,022 ft)
Total time: 7 hours 19 minutes
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