The Penultimate Day.
I can’t believe I’m almost at the end of my trek. Very mixed emotions this morning as I pack everything away. I’m proud of myself for this accomplishment, and both glad and sad for it to be nearly over.
Have I wanted to quit at any point — no. Have I had negative thoughts wishing it was over — also no. Would I repeat this and do it all again — hell yes.
It has been amazing. You realise a lot about yourself on a thru‑hike. You push yourself when you didn’t think you could anymore. Most of the time you only have yourself to encourage you and fight the demons that creep in. Fortunately mine were few and far between.
I left The Lion looking back longingly (I know I said earlier not to do that). “I’ll be back,” I said aloud to no one. The fine drizzle matched my mood as I begrudgingly trudged along the now rainy, wet road.
This year has probably been quite unique in its weather for this part of the country, and maybe if every day had been like today, my answers to the questions above might have been different.
I passed Fat Betty — who leaves a package of doughnuts? Goodness knows how long ago they were purchased.
By the time I’d walked along Glaisdale Valley and reached the sleepy little town of Glaisdale, the rain had stopped. It was so sleepy that the village shop was closed — and looked like it had been for quite a while. Despite scouring the whole place, there was no sign of a café in any shape or form. Very disappointing. Again, if I’d known that, I would have had breakfast at The Lion. Knowing their portion sizes, it would have lasted me the rest of the trip.
So on to the lovely hamlet of Egton Bridge. My 4th‑edition guidebook says there is a café there.
Egton Bridge — café closed! But the pub was open. It was 11:45am and Sunday lunch was at 12:30. It sounded and smelled great, but I fancied something lighter and didn’t want to wait another 45 minutes.
On to Grosmont — surely third time lucky for food.
I stopped off at Hedda Church after going across the stepping stones numerous times because it was fun. It’s a beautiful old church that absolutely stuns inside despite its modest exterior.
I walked along an old toll road, past Egton Manor, where Ethan caught up with me. It was lovely having someone to chat with and a familiar face to share the miles.
On the outskirts of Grosmont there was a quintessential game of cricket on the village pitch, and the picture‑book steam train pulling into the station. The whole village looked like something from an Enid Blyton book. (Those under 50 will have to Google that reference.)
Thankfully, Grosmont had plenty of places to get food, including the Co‑op — one of the oldest community‑run village shops in the country.
Before tackling the 33% hill out of Grosmont, Ethan and I refuelled quite splendidly at a little tearoom that used to be a school. Quite apt for a retired Headmistress, I think.
On the menu for me:
Spicy tomato soup with ciabatta
Victoria sponge
Hot chocolate
The 33% hill turned out to be around 1.5 miles long. So glad I wasn’t on my bike or carrying my pack.
The sea was getting so close now, and after winding through beautiful lanes we soon arrived at Littlebeck and ultimately Intake Farm. This is the last place my bag will be dropped off. Tomorrow Mini‑me and I will be reunited.
Charlotte and Connor were already there, and it was great to hear their stories and learn where they’d stayed and what they’d encountered. We snacked on Bakewell tart and tea and welcomed James and Robbie, watching the six kittens playing in the yard. It doesn’t get much better than this.
We had all pre‑ordered dinner, which was served in Judith’s front room on a beautifully embroidered tablecloth in front of a traditional fireplace. The table was literally groaning with food — as were we after about an hour.
On the menu:
Beef stew
Chicken casserole
Cauliflower cheese
Potatoes
Carrots
Cabbage
Broccoli
Gravy
Plum or apple crumble and custard for dessert (I had both.)
What an amazing near‑end to an amazing trip with total strangers who have become my hiking companions. I’ll sleep well tonight — my belly absolutely stuffed.
Strava Stats (with imperial conversions)
Distance: 31.17 km (19.37 miles)
Elevation gain: 636 m (2,087 ft)
Walking time: 6 hours 38 minutes
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