Day 9: St. Giles Farm to Danby Wiske

Thank goodness for a shorter day — it was 33 degrees by mid‑afternoon. I felt quite rough for the first hour or so. My sausage roll breakfast was nowhere near enough. Laura had decided to walk this leg and had gone ahead of me. She’s not my pace, and usually walks slower than me, but I couldn’t catch her. I was feeling very sorry for myself: nauseous, light‑headed, and stupid for letting myself get into such a calorie deficit.

In what felt like an eternity, I arrived at Bolton‑on‑Swale, where the village church had a sign for walkers and offered a tuck shop. What a lifesaver. Tea and Bourbon biscuits. The church was cool and peaceful, and I enjoyed the solitude and the temperature.

The door creaked open and Laura appeared — strange, since she’d set off ahead of me. She’d made a detour to a Texaco garage about 400m away. Music to my ears. I half‑ran (not a good idea), stumbled, down the road thinking of all the things I wanted. I settled on a sausage batch, sandwiches, crisps, and a Lucozade (aids recovery). I should have got more. I don’t think I was thinking straight.

The stop made me feel somewhat better and a little more with it. Laura walked with me — she said she was worried about me, bless — and we cracked on. Farmers’ fields, not much shade, 33 degrees. Thank goodness for the pack transfer service.

We were glad to reach Danby Wiske and Church House Farm Camping. This is the five‑star of camping resorts: free tea and coffee in the camp kitchen, laundry facilities, hot showers, free camping chairs so you don’t have to sit in your tent, and a very well‑stocked tuck shop — including books if you fancy a read.

We had dinner at the local pub. I’m not sure if you always get a free pint or whether that was just because the landlord’s funeral had been held that day. Either way, it was much appreciated — and many condolences.

My aunt, who was following (stalking) me on my phone, had instructed me to eat loads, so I did — including apple crumble and custard. It was great catching up with Ethan from Keld, and Charlotte and Connor, who confessed they’d been eyeing my cheese on toast back in Reeth.

I’d arrived early, as it was a short day, and it was lovely to chill at the campsite and enjoy the weather. I washed clothes, dried them on the rack, and felt very accomplished.

Night. See you on the trail tomorrow.

Strava Stats

• Distance: 21 km (13.05 miles)

• Elevation gain: 182 m (597 ft)

• Total time: 4 hours 33 minutes