Day 3: Standing on Top of the World -Borrowdale to Grasmere

Headed straight back to the Borrowdale Youth Hostel for a splendid fry‑up to start the day. If you’ve ever seen Run Fat Boy Run, you’ll know the line: “A Full English… and a Side English.” Honestly, what is wrong with that? After yesterday’s efforts, I felt fully justified.

Today was my catch‑up day. As I’d started walking the afternoon I arrived in St Bees, I was now a day ahead of my original schedule. If I kept going to Patterdale as planned, all my accommodation bookings would unravel like a badly packed rucksack. So instead, I decided to split the stage and head only as far as Grasmere. In hindsight, sticking to the original plan would have made for an awfully long and difficult day, so I’m glad I opted for this.

Laura and I met up after breakfast. I told her I’d need her to push me in a wheelbarrow after the mountain of food I’d just consumed.

Classic Lake District: up, up, and more up. We followed the valley with Eagle Crag looming ahead, waterfalls tumbling down the hillside even though the whole country was supposedly in drought. The guidebook says that by the time you reach Lining Crag, you’re looking down on Eagle Crag — and it’s true. The climb is relentless, a proper calf‑burner, and the path occasionally dissolves into “choose your own adventure” territory. Thank goodness for the Ceredigion Coast Path and the Fox Route up Snowdon; they’d toughened me up for this moment.

I won’t pretend I enjoyed carrying Mini‑me up there, but I felt strong, powerful, and oddly energetic. At one point, an equally strong woman in running gear past us. She’d decided — as you do when you’re older, extremely fit, and inspiring — to run to Grasmere for breakfast. I was in awe.

A family of four had left Borrowdale at the same time as us, and we leapfrogged each other all the way up. Mum usually brought up the rear, Dad shepherded the two boys — maybe ten and eight — and I was genuinely impressed they were out here doing this instead of glued to screens.

Laura and I weren’t quite at the same pace, but I didn’t mind. It gave me time to pause, breathe, and take it all in. I was very aware of the danger on this section: loose rocks waiting to trip you, and the ever‑present wind buffeting you sideways. I had to stay fully present, always watching where I placed my feet to avoid taking the quick way down.

The views were staggering. The weather was brilliant, and we could see for miles. Today was absolutely the day for blasting out David Lee Roth’s 'Standing on Top of the World, for a little while' — and feeling every word of it.

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I headed back down the route I’d just struggled up to check on Laura. Tears dampened her cheeks, and I could see in her eyes that this section had rattled her — that awful moment when you wonder whether you can actually carry on. I reassured her that she’d already done the hardest part and was almost at the top. And finally, she made it.

From Greenup Edge, I took the high route — the glorious ridge walk across Calf Crag, Pike of Carrs, Moment Crag, and Gibson Knott, all the way to Helm Crag. Absolutely stunning. Did I already say that? I’ll say it again. Stunning.

Then… what goes up, as they say… must come down. The descent dropped me towards the head of the Wythburn Valley, with wide views over Easedale Gill and Easedale Tarn, before the path curled gently into Grasmere.

I really liked Grasmere — especially because it had a Co‑op and I could buy my own food. Later I read that William Wordsworth lived here. “I wandered lonely as a cloud…” Not lonely here — just loads of tourists. The famous Gingerbread Shop, 150 years old, sits right in the centre. Definitely a place to come back to.

I camped at the YHA for an extortionate £25. Steep, I thought, for a one‑person tent. But then I remembered: I’d had an endless hot shower, sat on comfy sofas, eaten my own preferred food — curry — and flicked through some books. Maybe £25 isn’t all that bad.

Strava Stats

• Distance: 16.54 km (10.28 miles)

• Elevation gain: 664 m (2,178 ft)

• Total walking time: 5 hours 15 minutes

It felt like a lot more — but that’s the Lake District for you.