Day 6: Flying along to Kirkby Stephen.

For the next six nights my accommodations were all booked, so I decided to have Packhorse Baggage Transfer pick up my bag starting today. I’d brought a small day pack for this very purpose, and now I filled it with only the essentials. It immediately felt almost as heavy as Mini‑me, so I went through the whole procedure again to lighten it significantly. It felt strange saying goodbye to Mini‑me. Had I filled out the form correctly? Would they actually pick up my bag?

With a light load on my back and the prospect of a real bed at the Kirkby Stephen Youth Hostel, I felt super energised. Today was going to be the longest mileage so far — but flatter.

Shap Quarry dominates the landscape as you leave the village, a reminder of the industrial backbone that once shaped this community. The quarry has been mining pink granite and limestone for over a century, supplying stone for major construction projects across the UK. Walking past it, you can see the vast cut‑outs in the hillside — a stark contrast to the picturesque fells I’d been roaming for days. The nearby council estate suddenly made sense: these were once the homes of quarry workers whose lives revolved around this rugged, noisy industry. A train had roared past me on leaving the village and now crossing the M6 on the footbridge, with lorries thundering below, felt surreal after the solitude of the Lakes — like stepping abruptly from wilderness back into the human world. That’s right: today I was leaving the Lake District behind and heading into more populated areas. A different landscape awaited — rolling hills, sheep‑filled fields, heather‑clad moorlands, and the Pennines framing the horizon.

How did this get here ?

I took the detour to Orton. This was one of the reasons I’d decided to use baggage transfer — so I could explore a little more without lugging 24 lbs with me. The church in Orton dates back to 1293 and is unique with its whitewashed tower. And who would expect to find a full‑on chocolate factory in the middle of such a small hamlet? From the shop/café you get an excellent view straight into this Yorkshire Willy Wonka Land. I didn’t buy any chocolate — it was already about 26 degrees and I knew it would melt— but I did purchase a delicious raspberry milkshake.

The detour adds approximately 4–5 km and also passes a stone circle. These always fascinate me: the origin, the why, the meaning. There’s something magical about them, but also something a little eerie.

This section of the route hosts the Sunbiggin Honesty Box, which has a huge assortment of snacks, treats, and tea and coffee. Make sure you carry change for these experiences. I bought a can of ginger beer, which had me burping all the way to Kirkby Stephen.

In my trusted but old edition of the Steadman Guide, there are mentions of significant archaeological sites on this section, including a village settlement described as “a very important prehistoric site in the UK,” and the Giant’s Graves. Unfortunately, I missed these. (Note to self: read up on the next section the night before!)

Same caption as above - How did this get here? The Fell Fridge.

Still burping over the moors — thankfully the sheep didn’t seem to mind — I wasn’t tempted by the Fell Fridge and carried on until I arrived at the beautiful town of Kirkby Stephen. I’d booked the Youth Hostel as it was a long day. This hostel isn’t affiliated with YHA; it’s privately run and located in an old chapel. I had a four‑bed dorm all to myself. It was a great opportunity to re‑sort everything and do laundry. Yes — my bag had arrived, and we had quite an emotional reunion. I’d brought laundry sheets with me, and they were very effective at washing five days’ worth of stuff. I took advantage of the drying room also.

As the afternoon wore on, it seemed I had the whole place to myself, which was a little eerie — an old chapel can feel spooky when it’s empty. So I was delighted to hear the door open and see the family of four from Borrowdale walk in. It was great catching up with them and hearing about their trip. Most importantly, everyone was smiling and still seemed to be one happy family.

Dinner tonight was a real treat: The Mango Tree curry house. You know when you go for a curry and order a main dish — like Lamb Balti — and then split a rice and naan?

Not tonight, baby.

Kirkby Stephen Youth Hostel

Strava Stats:

Distance: 37.35 km (23.22 miles)

Elevation gain: 787 m (2,582 ft)

Total time: 7 hours 54 minutes